Mae Khue Cockfighting

Blood, feathers and cash...

Cockfighting in rural Thailand.

Over the past few weeks, I've spent a little time documenting this form of gambling as it was quite accessible by motorbike from Chiang Mai. I first visited the venue with photographers Fabian Weiss and Anna Spelman on Aug. 5. Then, on Aug. 13, I returned with photographer Spike Johnson to try and narrow the focus of the images a bit as well as capture more audio.

The format is very similar to that of traditional boxing-- trainers handle and care for their fighters with fervor and during the bouts betters scream out in both joy and anguish. In between rounds, the trainers work quickly to sew up the chickens while feeding them various synthetic steroids and energy boosters.  Fights do not go to the death, but rather, until one chicken either loses interest or becomes too weak to go on.

Below is an ambient audio mix I put together from the cockfighting venue. Turn up the volume...

Hundreds of spectators gather at a cockfighting venue near Chiang Mai, Thailand.

Betters scream out as a fight takes a dramatic turn.

Two chickens stare each other down during a fight.

Spectators count their cash during a fight in the main ring. Though very rare, bets in the main ring can run as high as 1 million Baht (~$31,700).

A spectator lights a cigarette during an intermission.

A man makes a bet in the small ring during a bout.

Trainers stitch and sew the wounds in their chicken in between rounds of a fight in the main ring.

Using a common technique, a trainer sews the bleeding eyelid of his chicken before taking it back to fight again in the main ring.

A cock waits in a cage outside of the venue.

A trainer waits to weigh-in before a fight.

Single: Muang On Cave

Yesterday, after my original plan fell through (more on this project in coming weeks), I was left with two options:

1. Turn around and make the 45 minute drive back to Chiang Mai where I would almost positively end up sitting in a cafe staring at the wall while spending money on caffeinated drinks, or...

2. Continue driving until I found something else to do.

Being that it was early afternoon, it seemed criminal to go with anything but "#2". So, with that settled, I set off and started cruising. Another 45 minutes later, I saw a sign for an "art cafe" on the side of the road. It was a simple sign, but it succeeded in feeding my "I'm-from-Seattle-so-I'm-supposed-to-like-the-word-art" ego. Needless to say, I pulled over. The place was called La Bhu Salah, and was run by a  kind Thai man who authors a variety of traditional cookbooks. After a tour of his property, he pointed me down the road to the Muang On Cave as I'd asked him if there were any good hikes nearby.

Another sign that read "CAVES----->" clued me in to the turnoff.

A short stair climb leads to the entrance for the cave where utter silence awaits-- refreshing after months staying in cities. 

I was getting ready to leave when I saw what would have been a nice image if only there were people to occupy the lower portion of the picture. A few minutes later, a young Thai couple climbed down into the cave and walked right up to the mat I was situated near. We exchanged quick bows before they removed their shoes to pay respects to the reclining Buddha and I snapped off a few frames in the process. 

A young Thai couple pay their respects to a reclining Buddha figure in the Muang On Cave near Chiang Mai, Thailand on Aug. 11, 2012.

Come Back Big

Foundry Photojournalism week 2012 may be in the books, but Foundry Photojournalism recovery week 2012 is in full swing-- errr, full walk. A slow walk that is...

Case in point being that my schedule has been wide open yet I've still needed six days before finally feeling up to the task of creating a fresh blog post with new work.

During the (crazy) week, I worked alongside five fellow students in Danish photojournalist Henrik Kastenskov's multimedia class. My subject was a local Muay Thai fighter Mana "Big" Inkham, who, seven months earlier, was the victim of a hit and run accident while stopped at a light on his motorbike with his girlfriend. He suffered a severe concussion, spent a week in the hospital and has since continued to train and fight despite a stern disapproval from his doctor.

As someone who used to spend most of his time in pursuit of athletics, I could immediately relate to Big's lifestyle. He wakes up early, trains for a few hours in the morning and then sleeps and relaxes during the daytime before continuing with his training into the evening. And while I never faced anything close to the magnitude of setback that Big is dealing with now, the feeling of dedicating 95% of your time to a sport, only to have it chew you up and spit you out with nothing more to show than a few bruises is something quite familiar. I think all endurance athletes know this feeling all too well...

I followed Big as he prepared for a fight in the neighboring Lamphun Province-- about a three and a half hour drive from Chiang Mai. After the fight, I spent a few days putting together a multimedia piece that tells Big's story. I have since decided to re-edit the piece so instead of posting it, I will share some still photos from the project. When I have finalized the multimedia piece, I will post it here.

Until then, here are ten photographs from my time spent with Big.

Big trains at the Lanna Muay Thai Gym in Chiang Mai, Thailand.

Big shares the back of his trainer's truck with two dogs who live at the Lanna Muay Thai center.

After a hard early morning run, Big cools down before heading back to Chiang Mai.

A set of keys sit on the edge of a boxing ring at Lanna Muay Thai training center. 

Big has a laugh before heading to his fight in the Lamphun Province of Northern Thailand on July 30, 2012.

A crowd of a few hundred waits eagerly for Big's fight to begin in Li, Thailand on July 30, 2012.

Lanna Muay Thai founder Andy Thompson participates with Big in pre-fight traditions.

Big's trainer holds his head and offers encouragement between the second and third rounds of his fight.

After losing by way of judge's decision, Big holds his aching head and tries to sleep.

Big rides in his trainer's truck on July 30, 2012.

Bangkok Offerings

Below is a little multimedia piece that I made from this morning's gathering of Buddhist Monks in Asok, Bangkok, Thailand.

I had finished up shooting/collecting audio and was sitting curbside drinking water and thinking of my empty stomach when a monk approached me and offered a bowl of rice pudding. As cars flew by and motorcycles beeped their horns, the two of us sat on the ground and had breakfast as the sun rose up and the crowds dispersed from the event.

In short, it was a spectacular morning...

Sister Joan Evans

Yesterday, through a friend, I was introduced to Sister Joan Evans, an Australian woman who has dedicated the past 20 years of her life to living and working in the Klong Toey Slum of Bangkok. Each week those in need gather at her doorstep to request funds for everything from food to minor home repair.

Sister Joan's meetings with those who come to see her are brief -- often beginning with an exchange of greetings and ending minutes later with a quiet bow of respect.

The amount of money (all from donations) is usually quite small -- sometimes only a few hundred Baht, equivalent to just over six U.S. Dollars -- but for those living in Klong Toey, where upward mobility is next to impossible, it can make all the difference.

In the two decades Sister Joan has lived in the slum, poverty rates have remained stagnant. Today, she focuses primarily on helping children stay in school. With an education, she hopes they may be able to grow up with an understanding of their own situation which could prompt some to seek a better life.

After receiving financial help from Sister Joan Evans, a man bows in respect before leaving her home.

Residents of Bangkok's Klong Toey slum wait outside of Sister Joan's home.

Sister Joan hands a woman a small amount of Thai Baht to help get her through the next week. 

A woman signs a sheet to acknowledge she has received help from Sister Joan. Each visitor must sign in to help maintain an organized record of outgoing money.

Outside of Sister Joan's home, visitors from the slum wait their turn to meet with her.

A bead of sweat drips down a man's cheek as he waits to be seen by Sister Joan. Nerves often run high as visitors are not guaranteed to receive financial aid.

A young boy looks on as he waits to meet with Sister Joan. 

Inside of Sister Joan's home, a young girl waits after requesting money for school.

A white board inside of Sister Joan's home.

Sister Joan hands a woman a small amount of cash.

As heavy rain clouds move in, Sister Joan meets with two young schoolgirls.

I will be spending a little more time photographing life in Klong Toey before heading up to Chiang Mai via overnight train on Sunday. 

That's all for now ;) 

Ian

Seattle Libyan Students

Well, here we are, yet another blog added to the interwebs.

It's been quite awhile since I last penned an entry— Fall of 2010 to be exact, when I kept a blog during a 4 month trip in Europe— but it feels good to be "back in the saddle" so to say. On this site I will post samples of recent work, stories, as well as photographs. Without further ado, here's an update on my most recent project:

In May I attended a talk at Shoreline Community College (SCC) hosted by fellow students whom I had never met before. They were to speak of their own experiences in Libya— a country that has just emerged from civil war and now faces the task of installing a brand new government— while also touching on what they hope to see for the future.

Mohammed, Nadine and Logina each shared stories and insight that cast a very human light on an issue that, otherwise, has been pretty doom and gloom in the media. Their passion was evident and I felt like it would make for a compelling feature.

3100 words, 3 photos, a few weeks and a bunch of phone calls later, here are the photographs and final spread that will run in the double truck of SCC's summertime issue:

Shoreline Community College student Nadine Bejou, 22, is the founder of the TEETH Project (Together we Educate Enhance and Transform Health) which aims to teach young Libyans about proper dental hygiene. During the summer of 2012, Bejou will travel to Libya where she will team up with dental students at the University of Benghazi to continue her project.

Mohammed Rajab Fadil, 20, looks out the window in the apartment he shares with two roommates in the Northgate neighborhood of Seattle, Wash. on May 30, 2012. Fadil, originally from Benghazi, Libya, put his studies on hold at Shoreline Community College so he could return to Libya where he spent two months fighting alongside rebel forces against former dictator Muammar Gaddafi's army.

Shoreline Community College student Logina Abukhashim, 25, practices her English during a morning intermediate ESL class at the school on May 30, 2012. Abukhashim, who has lived in Seattle, Wash. since January of 2012, was forced to leave her native country of Libya after the uprisings closed the university in which she was studying medicine. 

Now that this is finished, I can fully turn my attention to my upcoming Asia trip. I leave on the 27th— still so much to do...

Cheers,

Ian